Nazca -- As real as it could be . . . 9/4/07 - 9/5/07

Some are just lines- crisscrossing, random, and yet, completely linear - stretching for many kilometers into the distance. Roads? Never seen roads that head straight across mountain ranges without deviation. Many times, converging to a single point. Many form geometric figures, waves, or even spirals. They are formed by lifting the tough sand bed, exposing the lighter shade for contrast, hence a sort of rough painting on gravel. Talk about art, eh? (Perhaps by walking in religious ceremonies. A lot of this area is covered with pottery bits, and even mummified bodies of the Nazca themselves.)

SOME of these lines aren´t simply lines at all, but outlined shapes of animals, pictures of plants and flowers, and stranger figures like deformed animals, an astronaut or the cone-shaped headed man, even E.T?!. A whale (even though this valley is 400 km. from the coast,) a monkey (even though this valley is a sandy dessert and really, had to be for the lines to even be formed,) a pelican (the largest of them all.) A humming bird, a spider, "a weird being with two enormous hands, one normal and the other with only four fingers."
And on top of all that, these mystic lines were made 1500 years ago, mysteriously abandoned 500 years later, and were only noticed recently because the only way that one could see them, was from above . . . yes, the only way that they could be appreciated or merely noticed was by flying over them! Ah yes, the mystery of the Nazca line . . . some of us know a lot about these things but most folks I know - don´t, including myself. Most of us had briefly heard about these "types" of things and sort of categorized them as little fairy tales, or better yet, mysterious wonders of the world . . . whispered about, pondered about, and then shrugged away as just another ìnteresting bit of knowledge. But well, we do believe in what we see. And so, Nazca - as real as it could be.
We rolled into the dusty town in the weeeheee hours of the morning, glued eye-lids and funky-lookin´hair. . . wanting nothing . . . maybe a comfortable bed to sit on to reflect upon and recoup from the long journey. Instead, (and this is all before coffee), we find ourselves talking to a local pilot about a possible flight over "the lines", a sort of luxury but necessity here at Nasca, wouldn´t you think?

So let me stop sounding like a commercial. Most of this stuff we didn´t even know. The cool but somewhat tedious part of the packaged flight over the Nazca lines is an educational video everyone watches before going up, and it´s a good thing. Maybe to teach you a thing or two, maybe to just deflate your expectations a bit . . . . after all, they are just lines !? Right?!

( NASA Satellite image )Some info the video offered:The Nazca lines are located in the Pampa Valley of Peru, the province of Nazca and yet, were not "discovered" until commercial airlines started flying over the 450 sq. km valley back in 1920´s. People started noticing "primitive landing - strips" and other shapes, and so the chase to understand these lines began. Many scientists walked these "paths" for years, finding Nazca remains (or better known as treasures) such as bones, pottery, textiles. Theories were thrown from left and right- Maybe they were landing strips for U.F.O.´s. Maybe these shapes formed the Nazca calendar. Maybe it was a religious ceremony and offering. And on that note, maybe these drawings were an offering to "water," as many lines point to mountains that provided water to this valley via streams and rivers. Maybe, maybe, maybe.

So we arrive at this local airport only a few hours later (this part is after coffee, of course) and find 4-to-6 person carriers filtering the lot. Watch the video, get up feeling like we know all there is to know about the Nazca lines (Do you really think we can learn more by flying over it?), strap in, and take off . . . We cover a bit of dessert range and mountain terrain with beautiful horizons, and then . . . you see them. You see them and yes, they are just lines, but all of a sudden, it no longer remains a little fairy tail . . . to ponder about and shrug away. It´s real. And that´s when you really start asking "How?" and for god´s sake, "Why?"
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Mind you, our pilot was a little crazy, or maybe, just inexperienced with flying "novices." He had no problem tilting the plane 90 degrees for the left side of the plan to get the perfect view and picture of the lines . . . and then, just as fast, letting the right side having a similar view. Whooo! My stomach was in my chest, my chest was in my head, and my head was just trying to focus on one focal point to stop the damn spinning. Mishka was worse!
"Are you alright?" I said. Pausing to let his head drop a little ", I think I´m going to throw up," he replies, grabbing for a strategically placed plastic bag. Guess this has happened before, what a surprise. So what do I do, I take a picture. That´s my baby right there. Good thing we were heading back already, 10 minutes early, but who´se complaining?!

In any case, to this day, the Nazca lines remain to be " the most outstanding group of geoglyphs in the world, supposedly ranking above those of Chile, Bolivia, United States, Egypt, etc, etc.

And so, after man invented the plane and put a highway though this valley (cutting the enormous 180 m. lizard in half), were these lines finally "discovered," or after all this time, simply just noticed. It is amazing how a part of history, a part of this specie´s Story can be erased like it never happened. And it IS quite remarkable and truly invigorating to just sit there, and ponder, "How?" and for god´s sake "Why?" -------------------------------------------------------
The small city of Nazca offers a few museums and festivals to enjoy, maybe catching a live performance from a local dance group or singer in the Plaza de Armas. On our second day, we headed over to a small restaurant and talked for four hours to a fellow traveler Bob (didn´t think we would remember your name, did you??)

Bob, a gentleman of hearts, is filled with great stories and contagious laughter. He is a "lone warrior" in every way. Follows his own strides and passions; grows very few, but memorable, roots along the way. A sort of bird that flies south for the winter. (He is retired and lives half a year in Canada and half in Peru! May we all learn a bit from Bob.) Anyway, Bob told us some great war stories of his travels and gave us some great advice about Arequipa and the beauty and mystery of the Colca Canyon, our future destination . . .

I have a feeling we will see each other again, just a hunch:)