Monday, July 30, 2007

Our friends!

You know? We are the luckiest travelers around. Everywhere we go, we meet the coolest, most hospitable, and really fun and interesting people! And Chachapoyas is no exception. Really, I think that is what gives places their personality. We arrived by bus with only our guide book in hand just like we have in every place before. Sorry, also our smiles and our laughter.
And the most incredible people come into our path...

Lucia, a really cool, but fierce Peruana.

Franco, a laid back Italian play writer, director, artist, language teacher and Backgammon master. Franco is a very special man and here is a clip of him talking ( sorry that its sideways):



If you're wondeing about the wheelchairs, Lucia had an episode with hurting her middle finger while she got into a small "tiff" with a bouncer at a club when some of our jackets mysteriously disappeared. She's OK.

We spent countless nights in Lucia's small apartment singing songs, acting, dancing as if we had invented dance, laughing and loving each other. Of course with a bottle of wine at hand. We can never forget. Here's a clip:



On the way to the freezing pool that Lucia swore was warm.

Fidel saying sweet words to Venessa on her birthday. Fidel runs a language school in town that we sharpened our Spanish skills at. Also a really funny guy as well.

Backgammon! My new obsession.

Janet (on the left) and (Pedro on the right). Two beautiful people we met who took us on a painful but amazing trip to Cocobamba. (Our next blog, stay tuned.)

And of course me and a local plumber.

Below is the last entry about Kuelap, the ancient city of the Chachapoyas. If there's a little Indiana Jones in you, read on...

Chachapoyas and a sidetrip to Kuelap

Kuelap!... I guess the reason Chachapoyas is on the tourist map. A fortress on top of a lonely mountain that is hard to notice unless you know it's there. Before the Incas and the Spanish Conquistadors put Peru on the map, the Chachapoyans built Kuelap do defend themselves against other warring tribes, over 1200 years ago. There it is on top of a desolate mountain. (It looks like a submarine, sort of.) Kuelap is a 3 hour bumpy ride south of Chachapoyas (the city that was named after the long gone civilization that lived here.) The ride itself is breathtaking as the van scales the mountains on roads that feel like they're out of place. Valley after valley, mountain after mountain, and tombs after tombs that are built into the faces of the mountains like the ones below. Chachapoyans had "balls"... Those round things above are bases for tombs or houses. "Why?", I asked myself. Imagine going to the bathroom at night. Dangerous. As a matter of fact, this whole region is filled with remnants of buildings stuck into unreachable places. But first, we had to find it...Some hike here, we drove. Much easier than the 6 hour, 3 kilometer hike up the steep mountain. The "city" is a marvel. One of the fun facts is that it took a lot more bricks to build the walls than the largest Egyptian pyramid. Really, there is very little known about it, since real digging only started about 3 years ago. Our guide was filled with assumptions about the story of these people and their life. Nobody really knows because these people disappeared before anyone could ask them any questions. We brooded around the walls and then went inside.The llamas are actually brought here for the tourists. They are not naturally here. Funny.

Me and my butterfly!


Honestly, we got a little screwed. The guiding company that we hired claimed to have an English speaking guide for us and was supposed to give us a discount. Ha-ha. Luckily, one of our fellow touristas spoke English and translated for us. Note to self: be careful with tourist trapping crooks! There she is. Pegonia was super awesome. I hope I spelled her name right.But it was incredible anyway. The overgrown buildings, stones that have been here for eons made me feel like I was Indiana Jones.A lot of this ancient city is under construction. The walls are being taken apart and re-mortared. It's difficult to describe this place. What can I say about it? It was awesome, inspiring, beautiful... and full of mysteries that we are just beginning to tap. The solution is all of you have to come and see it for yourselves!

We returned late at night and took Pegonia out for drinks. You would also be glad to know that the following day I became the right hand of justice and after much threatening, I got some money back. Yes!

Here are some more pics of Kuelap...

Sash n' J.


Sunday, July 29, 2007

JULY 29th!!!! It has come!!!

Who´s the Birthday Girl???!!!???Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
Yeah, it´s my birthday!!! I´m the birthday girl!!!
Me, Me, Me!!
I accept all kinds of virtual gifts, not to worry:)
(Did you know that Peru celebrates its independence this weekend?!? I think everyone just wants to celebrate my birthday with me! Guess I´m in for a good time one way or another!!)
Of course, a birthday is never the same without your home, your family. Here´s a little something that always reminds me of home, for all of us to enjoy:

(Ukrainian Lyrics - Courtesy of Orysia T.)Tam v haiu, pry Dunaiu, solovi shchebeche (2)Vin svoiu ptashynochku do hnizdechka klyche.Tam v haiu, pry Dunaiu, tam muzyka hraie (2)Bas hude, skrypka plache, molodets' huliaie.Tam v haiu, pry Dunaiu, khodzhu samotoiu (2)I plachu, i rydaiu myla/mylyi za toboiu.

(English Translation - Courtesy of Richard Handal)In the forest near the Danube river,there is a nightingale singing,he sings to gather everyone from his family. In the forest near the Danube river,there is a bass vibrating and a fiddle crying,I think of a place where my lovely one is strolling now. In the forest near the Danube river,I am sick with my loneliness,crying, I want to fly like a bird,to where my lovely one is now.(Anonymous / Traditional Ukrainian Folk Song)
Milla Jovovich In A Glade lyrics

Friday, July 27, 2007

Chachapoyas and a sidetrip to Huancas 7/10/07 - 7/11/07

One 9 hour bus ride (check!), on flat tire in the middle of the highway (check!), one 3 hour road block (check!), one 2 hour taxi ride (check!), and of course, a side excursion to a nearby river (and check!)
and we were in "Tha Nofen Hailans" (The Northern Highlands) of Peru!

Chachapoyas is a city in northern mountains of Peru and alrough it has changed its location several times due to climate, disease and a lack of defenses against rebelling local groups, it now stands at an elevation of 2,234 meters (7,657 feet), with a population of approximately 20 thousand people.
Until recently built highways, Chachapoyas was fairly isolated from the rest of Peru and so the tradition of local food, drinks, and dress have remained throughout the generations. The women wear skirts, even in the cold mountain climates, bright sweaters, Cajamarca hats or large scarfs, babies tied to their backs by handwoven blankets, ponchos, military hats, you name it . . . and horses are still a main way of travel through the mountains to "nearby" towns and villages."
We took a side-trip down this dirt road which smelled of all kinds of flowers and trees


and ended up in Huancas, a local district known for its pottery, hand woven garments, and mountain views


Here are some great little glimpses we caught on camera . . .
And of course . . . THE VIEW!
We took a stroll around the town and then along the mountain for some close-up actionand spent hours enjoying the mountain´s fresh air and little treats.
Flowers and other goodies for Sasha . . .

Bugs for Mishka (of course):

uhm, many beetles! In fact, Mishka became The Beetle Man

even a stickopelis bugagpolis!

It was hard to tear the man away from the bushes and every few minutes, "Babe! Look another beetle" . . .

which inspired us to make a little treat to our fans back home.

Sit back and enjoy . . .



Hehe, on the way back, a kind woman taught me a little about making thread
And it is NOT easy! First they collect the wool, then they spin it around a small stick into small thread, then they die it all kinds of colors, and finally weave it into rugs, shawls, blankets, etc. A lot of work! Makes you appreciate the way people live here.
And of course, we can´t forget Softka´s evil step-brother Brutis who resides in Huancas.

Don´t worry Softka, he doesn´t know where you are!