Saturday, August 18, 2007

Chiclayo 8/14/07 - 8/18/07



We caught the 7am early morning from Cajamarca to our next destination, Chiclayo. Our crew was intact with me, Sasha, and the newest addition to the team, Matty. It was a beautiful 6 hour ride as we descended from the towering Andes into the coastal desert of Peru, which runs through the whole coast of Peru.



The desert is how you would imagine it . . . lonesome, dry and empty except for the giant piles of garbage which create their own "havens" and break the peace of the desert. And it seems like it goes on forever. Little rivers snake through it, run around little "dams" made by farmers and feed their fields. Outside of the small green squares which grow rice, corn and the like, the desert is waiting with the patience only it has waiting to swallow up the green fields at first sign of drought. We however, drove past this lonely scene as we made our way to the coast.



Chiclayo is said to be a modern city, the commercial center of northern Peru. Really it's just another almost big city with its street markets, it's Plaza de Armas, the church looking over it, the bodegas, the crippled begging on the sidewalks, the rotisserie chicken joints on every corner, tiny combis (little buses which pack too many people in them) with guys screaming out destinations onto us, and the Peruvians going about their business.



We stepped off the bus ready to be courted by the local taxi drivers. Probably about 90% of the cars are taxis, all fighting over you. And all the taxis have their own personalities. Some with zebra designed seat covers, some with leopard ones. Some with neon lights inside and of course outside of the car. In fact some of the decorations would make you feel like being in a rap video. All I felt I needed was a bottle of Crystal and a feather in my hat. Pimpin' ain't easy!
Finally after travelling for what seems like ages, we have reached the pacific coast in a small town called Pimentel.

And of course there was a welcoming committee waiting for us...


The coast was not how I imagined it. Cold, windy, and empty just like the town. It felt like a plague came through here before us and took everyone except for the dogs, the little kids selling keychains and the angry Argentinian bum who cursed at me and Matty with every bad English word he had in his vocabulary. But here we are finally across the continent. It means a lot because almost the whole way for months, we took boats, smelly overpacked buses and horses to get here. Wow!
Really, Chiclayo is most famous for a recently found Moche Tomb of The Lord of Sipan. You see, back in 1987 there was an unusual amount of gold and other cool artifacts on the local black market. I personally couldn't find this market. It sounds like it would have a lot of cool stuff for sale. But no, no sign of it. Well, through some investigative work, the authorities discovered new tombs that we're getting robbed. Needless to say they stopped that, dug everything up and put it into a state of the art museum.

We checked it out of course. It was an amazing museum with lifelike wax figures of warriors and jewelry on display. We weren't allowed to bring any cameras, but me and Matty being rebels and all brought ours in. Here are some pics before I got caught with my camera and got escorted out:
Yeah, I didn't get to the good stuff yet. After, we checked out Tucume's valley of the pyramids. This guy came to meet us.Its an area of about 50 broken down pyramids which look more like big sand bumps in the ground. Those ridges below are the pyramids. Peru is so rich with archaeological sites that very little work is being done at this place. The grounds are littered with broken pieces of pottery, human bones, etc. Of course this is in places that tourists are not allowed to enter, but we helped ourselves there. I don't intend to make us sound like a bunch of misfits, but our curiosity gotten the best of us. We were like little kids filled with adventure stories wandering around the site.
We climbed the mountain in the middle of the ruins and got to enjoy the incredible view.

Also after all of our adventures, we found an awesome little taco place in Chiclayo. Sorry, no pics.
Anyway guys, I'll talk to you later. Gotta get back to the video game on the computer. Peace!
Oh, I will leave you with Matty rockin' out his Spanish with the taxi driver before the guy tries to rip him off...



Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Cajamarca 8/6/07 - 8/14/06

Cajamarca is best known as the city where the Incan Emperor Atahuallpa was imprisoned, held for ransom, and then killed by Spanish Conquistadors led by Pizarro back in 1532, drawing an end to the all powerful Incan Empire. The small Spanish troop of 170 "conquistadors" outsmarted and defeated an army of 80,000 (by promising a peace ceremony in order to lure Atahuallpa and then using guns and horses against people who have never seen either-- the Incas had no chance.)
Atahuallpa was held for ransom . . . which he delivered in the hopes of saving his life-- a room full of gold and twice of silver, as tall as the level of his out raised arm. This room is the only remaining Incan structure remaining in Cajamarca and is known as El Cuarto del Rescate, or "The Ransom Room." No you can´t go inside, no you can´t touch the wall, but you can stand outside and admire! Finally, of course, the Spanish killed Atahuallpa anyway. They spared him the death of burning at the stake to a more deserving one of strangulation with a garrote, once he miraculously decided to be baptized as a Christian! (Actually, the Incas believed that the soul could not have an afterlife if the body was burned. So there you have it.)

The city of Cajamarca is like any other large city . . . it has its bars, restaurants, churches (not in that order) and it has its markets.
Upon arriving, we ran into our friends from Celendín hot baths . . . Hector and Denis (they happened to be wearing clothes this time) and they helped us find a cheap hostel in the area . . . sure there was no hot water available for most of the day AND the mattress felt like a box-spring! But it was cheap . . . and just what we were looking for.

Mishka had to travel to Lima to pick up Matty, an incoming visitor from the good ol´U. S. of A. And of course we made a sign to welcome him

Which he loved! And promises to frame when he got home.
I decided to stick around and relax a bit, go the the hot baths and maybe dancing.The famous Baños del Incas where sort of disappointing . . . especially after being spoiled by the wonderful and natural springs in Celendín. For example . . .

Baños del Incas

(don´t touch the water, don´t cross the walkway, don´t try anything other than taking a pic!)


Older Baños (same rules apply)


And finally, my Baño where I was allowed to take a bath . . . Looks like a little tile closet don´t it? At least the water was medicinal . . . otherwise, it would have been like taking a bath at home!


Next day I went out dancing to a local bar before heading out to a festival in a nearby town. Needless to say, we never made it to the festival . . .Why fix it if it ain´t broken??Thank you Remac Crew, especially Denis and Hector!


Mishka returned with Matty from Lima and we hit the streets of Cajamarca. . . Ransom Chamber, Historical District, and other local delights. My favorite? Locking Misha up in a display case! Talk about fun!
Before heading for the coast, we decided to check out the Ventana´s of Otuzco (burial grounds in the mountains). Armed with sandwiches and strawberries, we had a picnic while reading "The Alchemist" aloud and pondering the afterlife.
Word to the wise: Peruvians love to plant cacti around their territories...so if you decide to climb over, be very careful! The cactus poison can hurt for days, in you joints! Very painful! Wink wink

Adios for now!

From Mishka and his two girlfriends:) Aren´t we pretty?

Friday, August 3, 2007

Celendín 7/31/07 - 8/6/07

The entrance to Celendín was quit rewarding after a 14 hour bumpy ride up and down the unpaved mountain road . . . quiet frankly, my ass really hurt and I needed a beer!
Luckily, a warm welcome got me just that. . . and I couldn't be happier.Celendín is a small city in the Northern Andes of Peru, in the department of Cajamarca. The market was a noisy little place with people haggling on every corner and bargains being made every few steps. We found a lot of people here, called compesinos, wearing the traditional clothing topped with a handmade sombrero . . .. . . locally made of course, an old tradition of Celendín. The main plaza called -wait, can you guess- Plaza de Armas and the surrounding streets is inhabited by most of the city´s 15,000 people and is uniquely colored baby-blue!
Baby-blue church, baby-blue city hall, baby-blue windows and doors, baby-blue borders . . . everything! Baby-blue! (I heard it has something to do with purity, and clean air)

And on every tree in the plaza (palm tree for example), there is a sign in Spanish that says "Hello, how are you? My name is palm tree. My scientific name is . . .yadayadayada. I was born in 1971. Take care of Nature." Hmmm, pretty interesting right?!

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We arrived in hopes of catching the festivities . . . mainly the bullfights! Matadors from Venezuela, Spain, Colombia, Mexico, Peru! How exciting! Our good friend Franco assured us that they didn´t kill the bull around here . . . and being totally uninformed, we believed him of course.

We arrived at the over-packed man-made arena which was in a frenzy as more and more people scaled the wooden beams, looking for the perfect spot to watch the spectacle. (I hope this picture gives you an idea)

We were in for a show of course before the big event. Everywhere you looked, people in costumes, beautiful dresses, crazy dragon heads . . . kids and adults alike.

This performance was by far my favorite! Those boys might be stomping up a storm but those ladies! They´re working out there! It was a hot day, just so you know, and those girls worked it out there!

Three performances, 4 sweet peanut bags, one band, 5 mangoes, 4 personal-stove prizes, and a cow-named-Rosy raffle later, the show began.

Toro: El NoreñoMatador: Andes Ruiz
and his colorful possie . . . of incompetent fools!I mean really, how many people does it take to take down a bull . . . because yes, they KILL the bull! This poor bull didn´t have a chance! I mean first, they play around a bit -- fooling the bull to follow their pink capes. They start jabbing him with these colorful peppermint-candy looking daggers that hang off of his back, tearing at his flesh. Then, when they feel like he is losing his energy and enough blood . . . that is when they surround the bleeding bull, all 3 or 4 matadors flashing their pink, making the bull dizzy and distorted. Then some really brave ol´chap goes in for the kill with a sword . . . and FINITO! They carry the bull off by the horns after giving him a final blow to the skull with a knife. A valiant death . . . just marvelous don´t you think?!
Actually, we left before the actual killing because I just didn´t have the heart to see it. (But don´t think we didn´t catch the nonstop reruns on the local networks! This town is a little obsessed if you know what I mean.)
What I was really hoping for was this (at least the first 5 seconds)
Yeah!! Wouldn´t that have been something! Now that´s what I call entertainment!
On the bright side, a really great guy Francisco who happened to be our hostel owner helped us explore the local delicacies . . .
Like CEVICHE (uncooked fish in lemon juice with corn crackers)
- - yeah, I look scared for a reason . . . haven´t tried it yet! But it turned out to be great! whew . . and of course there´s

CUY (guinea-pig)
I know, I know . . .guinea big! I´m sorry mom! I´m sorry sis! But what´s done is done . A little chewy for my taste. And the sight of that little paw, oh well, not for me.

Before leaving Celendín, we ventured out to the local hot and mud baths. A spectacular place in the middle of a mountain range where boiling hot sulfur water and the cold river flow side by side until they join into one, making for a really great time! And mud! What a great thing eh? So much fun!! And great for your skin . . . who could ask for more?! Let us introduce our tribe . . .

I was a little squeamish as this family started applying warm, gooey mud all over my body . . . but I got into it! Both of us did! Check us out . . . ROOOOAAAR!

Preccccccccccccccccccious . . . my precious . . . yesssssssssssssssss

We´ll leave you here . . . with a kiss

and see you later " in Cajamarca, our next adventure.