Thursday, July 26, 2007

Happy Birthday Richie!

Happy Birthday!!!


To a man who loves with his whole heart and gives the finger to veggies (as they rightfully deserve)! Rich, you enhance the lives of everyone around you and that's not " bushit". You are the man! Thanks for being there for all of us!

We love you with all our hearts!

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Sauce 7/4/07 - 7/10/07

Leaving Sauce, in order to bring our bags from Tarapoto, was a very interesting "combi" ride at four in the morning, the cheaper means of transportation that the locals use. Basically, an old torn-up van, over-packed with bags and people, bouncing down the mountain! It´s a good thing most Peruvians are short and can fit into small spaces . . . Mishka and I on the other hand are biggerStill, it´s worth saving almost HALF of the travel expenses and you get to enjoy the beautiful sunrise on the ferry The hostal we found was splendid: rooms surrounding a little forest filled with flowers, orange trees, and all kinds of sweet smells and colors.
The people of Sauce are very sincere, hospitable, and kind. Walking down the dusty streets, all the locals smile and say hello to you in Spanish while the kids yell out "Hello", "Hello mister"or other coin english phrases, then giggle and run away.
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Nothing like hitching a ride on the back of a truck to establish yourself in a small town!Right Misha!? ( xutpiú takoú)
We ate at the local eateries and swam in Lago Azul (the lake bordering the town), which will forever be known as Sauce Coche to the locals (name for "lake" in the native language of that area - Quechua)
(and this special video was made for the viewers´ entertainment)

. . . on occasion enjoying a cool refreshing Brahma-yes, we found it girls!


Mishka is a master pourer just so you know but I´m afraid being a bartender is out of the question!
Turns out that Sauce is filled with natural attractions . . . and we decided to hike to another lake 2 hours awayIt was a beautiful hike through many green fields filled with horses, cows, and goats grazing in the sunshine. We also passed small villages and even a dormant volcano on the horizon . . .
The trek took longer than we thought because of all the wonderful distractions
Butterflies for me . . . so amazing! Neon blue, light green, organge, hot pink, yellow, forest green . . . you name it! They were flittering around like rainbow-colored snowflakes . . . guiding my way through the forest.
For Mishka, cow shit happened to be a big distraction.
But hey, to each his own. Right?!? Hahaha

The lake was definitely beautiful and refreshing at the end of our 4 hour hike

And we swam across the lake to rent some kayaks so we could explore some more.Catching a boat ride back to Sauce with some people made this whole trip wonderful and also free!
Jeeeeeeeeeeew-Ish!

We finished our week at Sauce with a trip to the local sulfur hot baths. A little smelly. Sulfur does smell like eggs . . . but nothing a little shower can´t handle.
We bathed in the hot and cold bathes for almost 8 hours.
(Hey, no hot water for 2 months can do that to you!) And great views of course!
A calm, peaceful, and relaxing end to our Sauce trip. . .
and our "authentic" ride back


Next stop -- Chachapoyas!

Tarapoto and Finding Sanctuary 6/29/07 - 7/2/07

Tarapoto turned out to be a pretty big city with a lot of noise, great nightlife, and superb rotisserie chicken. This city was in between two mountain ranges but offered none of the fresh air that mountains usually promise.Our hostel room offered cable though! And even though both of us are against it all, we did watch quiet a bit and actually caught the finale of American Idol. I know, I know! But I´m glad I got to see how the "artists" of today, although very talented, are selling their individuality and future career to a company that will write (wait, they basically only cover), organize, produce, direct, and publicize their music for them. . . let´s just say I have quiet a bit to say about it. We´ll leave it at that for now.

Anyhow, we spent our time getting serious stuff done . . . like cleaning up!We also bought some warm clothes that we would be using in the colder mountain climates (happy Mamas?). . . and it´s a good thing we did because they came to be very useful indeed. I wish I had a picture of us eating chicken but you´ll have to use your imagination . . . it was definitely a lot!

Our friend Migdonio (whose farm we wanted to visit) was stuck out-of-town for a while so I guess our future profession of milking cows and making cheese will have to be put on hold for a while. Damn! I was really hoping.

Instead, we decided to leave the pollution of Tarapoto and head out for a day trip to a nearby village called Sauce (Sa-ucé) that promised swimming and relaxation (because we really needed it you know!)

Driving up the bumpy road of the mountain to Sauce involved crossing two rivers, one by ferry. I want to mention that this ferry used free energy only- the current. Very interesting design actually, I think we have a lot to learn from that.

As we drove higher and higher into the mountain, the atmosphere changed completely and the air . . . oh the air. . . was heaven. So piercing, cool and refreshing (I sound like grandma, I know.) We passed rivers, lakes, mountains, valleys (and MANY butterflies!!).
What we found on the other side of this passage . . .

was a little paradise . . .

It was simply- beautiful.

We spent the day eating delicious food (amazing fresh fish meals for less than $2!), swimming, reading, and taking pictures of all the amazing things we saw. Here are a few highlights . . .
We were Hooked! We decided to come back as soon as possible. But not before another dip!

See you soon Sauce

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And of course, a little entertainment for all you folks at home:

Boat and Road From Iquitos to Tarapoto 6/26/07 - 6/29/07

Well, we hit that dusty river once more and possibly for the last time during these here travels. It was a familiar scene with hundreds of hammocks swinging away as the boat set sail. As seasoned vagabonders that we are, we stocked up on snacks and left our family in Iquitos. The days passed quicker and almost at our stop, we began to see mountains in the distance. I felt like a sailor from days of old, finally seeing birds after months of sailing in the open sea. Wow, could that be the Andes? It was more like the foothills of the Andes, but hey, they were mountains nonetheless. Counting those final days . . . we have been on a boat up the Amazon for a total of 12 days and nights! (Eat that Zhenia with your 8 days on the Trans Siberian Railway. That was a joke. Sorry.)
Unfortunately, there is a lot of animal trade in the jungles of Peru. On many of the numerous stops, local kids would come into the boat and sell baby monkeys, parrots, and turtles besides the fruit and food. What can I say? Poor animals. Peru is a poor country and I can't judge the locals for doing anything to get by, but many animals are stripped of their habitat as they are sold to people who think they're cute and fun to play with. As a traveller, I can only be an observer and learn for myself. Just my opinion.
Doesn't he look like "dedushka"?
Well, this bird had a temper like him and he and his crew attacked a poor turtle who was minding his own business...
While floating up the Amazon, we had a chance to see beautiful sceneries as well as the way people live by the grand river. We have seen countless sunsets and sunrises that surpass any imagination . . .
And it has been an amazing ride.
It might have been almost two weeks but it sure beats taking a flight.
As we got off the boat in Yurimaguas, we were surrounded by moto-taxi guys. All willing to sweep us away from the dusty port and deliver us to our destination. We though, were moving on to Tarapoto 120 kilometers away. The moto-taxis, I must say so you faithful readers would know, are more like rickshaws ( I hope I spelled that right), but half motorcycle and half carriage. Very romantic and the cheap means of transportation that we've seen so far in Peru. As we barrelled down the rough streets, we watched our driver make arrangements to Tarapoto with another guy who was driving next to us. Really fun to watch.We got off and jumped into a car as we begun our supposedly 2 hour journey to Tarapoto. But we didn't exactly leave town until we watched our driver make suspicious pick-ups. Shady? Possibly.
We passed beautiful countryside until we ran into a roadblock which lasted 5 hours. "No problema!" Can't let a little roadblock slow you down.
Well, maybe just 5 hours!

But what´s five hours when you´re in Peru?

We played cards, danced, talked and laughed with our stranded conpadres. Where ever Sasha goes, good times follow...
(Sasha´s yellow Havayana bracelet has a new home now. . . Isn´t she cute?Ah!)
And when Sasha gets tired, she needs flowers to recoup...

Sometimes, she gets really tired...

And I. Well, I take pictures of plumbing every chance I get. Yes, its a urinal, but its made with tiles. Isn't that great? Isn't it? Anybody?
Anyway,the road to Tarapoto used to be a rough dirt road and travel was somewhat dangerous because the road crosses mountains. Now... yeah, its still kind of dangerous. Even though much of it has been paved, the mountainous part almost hasn't been touched and the construction company isn't in a rush because of it's 25 year contract to build the road. C´est la vie!
Next Stop . . . Tarapoto!